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GAY GUIDE TO ASWAN
The Corniche is the place where most locals congregate from the late afternoon onwards to cool off in the Nile breeze. At almost anytime it is probably the best place for encounters but the same precautions apply as in Luxor. Do walk along the river side and not the busy commercial/shopping side to avail yourself of the best chance for encounters.
Many gay tourists come here so you are likely to get plenty of commercial offers. "Want to try Egyptian banana ?" But as always be extremely careful of hustlers who have a million and one ways of parting you from your money. There are many of them, particularly along the Corniche, in the more touristic parts of the souk (market) and near the railway station - especially at times when trains from Cairo are due to arrive.
It is possible to find non commercial partners but as in Luxor many young Egyptians understandably hope to profit from friendships with tourists. One local deragatory word for "gay" which you might hear is "kowetcha" (meaning tyre).
Aswan is an ideal place to relax and unwind but one must-see site is Kitchener's Island. General Kitchener, who was briefly Egypt's Consul-General, was as famous for his love of young men as he was for his 1915 "Your Country Needs You !" recruiting poster. But on the island it was Kitchener's passion for flowers and exotic plants which is his enduring legacy. To appreciate these beautiful gardens The Cadogan Guide recommends the following.
"You should allow a guide to attach himself to you; he will skip about like one of Peter Pan's boys among the trees and plants in his sandals and galabiyya, picking leaves, flowers and fruits and crushing them in his fingers for you to smell, awakening all the pugency and variety of your surroundings."
On Fridays the island is invaded by students armed with ghetto blasters. Whether this adds or detracts from the island's attractions depends on your own interests.
For Egyptians, but not tourists who are banned, the Municipal Swimming Pool, next to the General Post Office on the Corniche, is also highly recommended as a profitable place for finding new partners. Tourists might try either the tiny swimming pool at the Cleopatra Hotel which is open to non-guests at just £10E or the pool at the Basma Hotel at £25E.
At sunset, if you are still without suitable companionship, head for the Ferial Gardens at the southern end of the Corniche, between the Air Egypt offices and the Old Cataract Hotel. Here you will find an incongruous mix of families enjoying the Nile view and less relaxed hustlers and others looking for sexual encounters.
Once it's dark head for Aswan's famous Souk, which runs parallel to the Corniche and also sprawls further inland at the southern end of the City. Here you will find all manner of goods for sale including aromatic spices, bright table cloths, coloured caps, dried hibiscus flowers, embroidered galibayyas, live chickens, Nubian basketwork and pickled fish. But of greater attraction than these impressive displays are the numerous handsome Nubian vendors. They tend to be taller and darker than most Egyptians and irresistably handsome. Cleopatra herself was supposedly of Nubian origin.
Those still without accomodation but with wads of money to dispose of need look no further than the famous Old Cataract Hotel where you can take afternoon tea in the manner of Egypt's shameful colonial masters of yesteryear. And it doesn't stop there, according to one contributer to cruisingforsex.com, who writing in November 2001 relates how a dining room waiter came to his room for a blowjob. It makes one wonder at Agathie Christie's preferance for holidaying at the hotel during the winter months. But cheeky room service is by no means limited to such upmarket establishments. You can be just as lucky in any backstreet backpacker's bolt hole. But don't expect the hotel staff to be so splendidly attired.
One such budget possibility is the Youth Hostel [ Tel/Fax 302 235 ] which is close to the station on Sharia Abtal at-Tahrir. Dorm beds are currently [ December 2002 ] less than £10E - 2 US dollars. During university breaks it can get quite crowded with Egyptian students. But if you are a tourist don't get too excited. You should note that foreigners are usually kept in separate accomodation from Egyptians.
For a guide to having sex in a felluca [ traditional sail boat ] please see the Luxor section -x click here.
For a guide to having sex with a kalesh driver [ horse and carriage driver ] please also see the Luxor section -x click here.
For full Aswan hotel listings x click here.
BONKING ON THE ASWAN-CAIRO OVERNIGHT TRAINS
It wasn't perhaps what Lord Kitchener had in mind when the railway line between Cairo and Aswan was originally laid, but first-class overnight carriages have become a convenient, some would say only, comfortable means for Egyptian straight and gay couples to have sex.
In Egypt it is next to impossible for unmarried Egyptian couples to spend time in a private room or appartment together. A violent fued would almost certainly erupt if an unmarried couple were found together in either the girlfriend's or boyfriend's home.
On the trains couples take advantage of the first class two-bed wagons-lit [sleeping carriages] on the overnight trains. Of course unmarried women may not share the carriage with another man but her boyfriend can, with good luck and the correct smile and discreetly given gift, book the adjacent carriage. It's normal but strictly illegal to bribe so as always such adventures are at your own risk !
Usually these adjacent carriages have double doors [ which can be locked from either side ] linking each carriage. So unmarried couples can, if lucky enough to get adjacent carriages, take advantage of this unequalled opportunity. And hopefully there will be no one they know on the train who will discover their dangerous game !
But couples must be quick as the carriage attendant will frequently knock on the main door to deliver food, tea, blankets or simply to check the passengers are not exploiting their private spaces to smoke pot or worse. Tipping the attendant on his early evening round might help lessen any potential danger, but it's still risky.
Single heterosexual males also can use the opportunity to chat to single women, who being vastly outnumbered by men, frequently travel with a carriage to themselves. It is certainly not unknown for women, who are often even more frustrated than the men, to gratefully accept the advances of young businessmen and university students.
Obviously the overwhelming ratio of men to women on the trains will mean that there will be still plenty of frustrated Egyptian men to satisfy a gay man who has a carriage to himself. But ensure you do. Just insist on paying the single supplement.
The wagon-lits can only be found on one first-class train daily in either direction. They are expensive but luxurious with air-conditioning, soft carpets, hot water and even venetian blinds to prevent commuters and station-masters at the many intermediate stations spotting the goings-on inside.
HISTORICAL TRIVIA
Did you know that one Egptian film Al nass wal Nil shows a fictional gay flirtation set against the background of the construction of the Aswan damn ? Filmed by Egyptian director Youssef Chahine in 1972, the story includes a sub-plot involving a homoerotic friendship between a Soviet technician and an Egyptian labourer.
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TYPICAL WEATHER - AVERAGE MINIMUM AND MAXIMUM TEMPERATURES (c)
Jan 10-23 March 14-31 May 23-29 July 26-41 Sept 24-39 Nov 17-31
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