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GAY GUIDE TO SIWA OASIS

The best of Siwa's many cruising spots is probably Cleopatra's Spring bathing pool just outside the town. Handsome Siwan guys can almost always be found fighting and covorting in the water. It's easy to pick up and as yet the editors' own experiences suggest that the sex police may not be as active as in Cairo though recently some tourists have reported that they have been followed. There have been no known reports of arrests in the newspapers but this is no reliable indication of the real situation and anyway, as elsewhere in Egypt, the situation can always change very quickly.

But before we explore the "gay" life in Siwa further, you might want to know a little about the town's fascinating and unique sexual history -



SIWA'S "GAY" HISTORY

Until the Second World War marriages between men were common. During the last century only women, children and men over the age of forty could remain within the city walls which meant that homosexuality was very common amongst the entirely male population outside.

The duty of these young men was to work the fields and to guard them from attacks by hostile bedouin. They had a fearsome reputation and were known as "Zaggalah" or "Club bearers". They also earned a shocking reputation for drunkeness and "unashamed" homoerotic relationships. As late as 1938 one horrified British army officer spoke with evident distaste of the oasis' "degenerate inhabitants" [ Major C. S. Jarvis OBE (1947 edition) Desert and Delta p182 ].

During the Second World War the oasis, which was close to Egypt's border with Axis controlled Libya, served as a base for British special operations against Rommel's Panzer Army Africa. It may have been this inflow of outsiders which led to negative reports being sent back to Cairo which in turn seems to have resulted in the outlawing of gay marriages in the oasis soon after the war's end. However such relationships, though now illicit, still continue to flourish today.

The oasis has also served as a strategic base for much earlier "world powers". Centuries ago Alexander the Great made a special detour across the desert to find the Oasis in 331BC. His journey was inspired by the reputation of a famous oracle to the god Amun sited in the oasis. The oracle promised him great conquests and he probably also enjoyed the company of some of the handsome Siwan men. It is only speculation but Alexander's bisexuality is well-known and some of the young priests may have earned a living as male prostitutes.

For whatever reason Alexander was so happy here he declared he would be buried in Siwa. Today some historians are hopeful they can find his tomb. These include Greek archaeologist Liana Sovaltzi who in 1995 discovered evidence indicating that the great conqueror was indeed buried somewhere near the Oasis. But despite much searching the tomb of Alexander remains to be discovered !



YOUR CHANCES TODAY

Even today women are kept well segregated from the men and homosexuality offers an easier possibility of sexual contact.

If you are not easily embarrassed and providing you are discreet you could try asking any of the young men who deal with tourists for advice on who might be willing. If you are an Egyptian there should be no problem finding sexual contacts for free. If you are a foreign tourist you might very ocassionally be asked to pay but your chances of free sex are far greater here than anywhere else in Egypt especially if you are young and/or attractive.

Every winter a few queens from Cairo descend on the oasis but otherwise this paradise is a fairly well kept secret. Go there before the gay crowds start going. At the moment the basic facilities - no banks and no sun cream or even socks in the shops when I was there - will dismay those who like to live in style but it is one of the best cruising places in the world.



AIDS HIV AND OTHER SEXUALY TRANSMITTED DISEASES

Please remember that it is difficult if not impossible for locals to purchase condoms inside Siwa. Also please remember that most Siwans would feel too stigmatized to seek medical help if they contract an STD. So don't engage in risky sexual activities under any circumstances. Always, always use a condom. If you might engage in sexual activity you should bring condoms with you.



GETTING THERE



Photo Copyright
GayEgypt.com 2006


Soon there will be an airport but for the moment the long bus or car journey from Alexandria [approx 7 hours] is well worth the reward. Even if you are in Cairo, the best way to get to Siwa is to take a train, bus or service (minibus) to Alexandria and then to travel by road (bus or taxi) to Mersa Matruh before changing on to a bus to Siwa.



SIWA'S HOT SPOTS

2007 UPDATE -
We have received emails warning that police are tightening up on crusing grounds including the bathing pools.


You might find your partner anywhere in the Oasis but it's certainly worth trying one of the many bathing pools. Among the best known are Cleopatra's Pool, mentioned above. It's a deep circular well-like pool and, despite Siwan assertions that the great queen was a patron, there is no evidence she ever bathed here.

At first sight a small amount of floating algae might deter you but the cries of fun from other swimmers will certainly attract. As the water level is usually some few feet down from the rim it means only voyeurs standing right at the edge will be able to see what is going on !

However this does not stop word from spreading quickly about who's using the pool. One visitor writing for travel site bootsnall.com was amazed when her swim in the pool created a traffic jam of donkey carts which only finally dispersed when she was again fully clothed. She confessed she had been warned by the tourist director that "all the village people go by it on their way to town, it's not proper for a lady to swim there" but being of a commendably adventurous disposition she ignored his defeatist advice. Fortunately there are not usually many, if any, gorping onlookers.

Another must is a pool at the appropriately named Fatnis Island (Fantasy Island), some 6km west of the town, situated at the edge of a large salt lake. The Rough Guide warns women that they should take care of off-duty soldiers who turn up around sunset although I had no such luck on my late afternoon visit.

You can reach the island by bicycle or donkey hantoor or, providing it's not mid summer, by a walk of just over an hour. On the way from town you will pass Abu Alif Bath which, as The Rough Guide notes, is "where the farm hands wash." Once at Fatnis Island you can find a pleasant cafe, near the pool and among the island palms where you can recuperate with a sheesha and a drink.

In the evening the best and only practical place to meet other men is in the Main Square. You can either sit in one of the small open air restaurants or sit for free near the map of the town at the centre of the square or just stroll slowly round.

If you find someone and their home lacks privacy you can consider going up into the mud ruins of the city of Shali overlooking the square and unoccupied since 1926 when a rare cloud burst of heavy ruin caused irreparable damage. But be warned that you should only venture into the ruins with someone familiar with the slippery uneven paths and leaning walls which are close to collapsing. Even then it is could prove a somewhat dangerous adventure. And don't forget to avoid getting seen as despite the prevalence of homosexuality, Siwa is a very conservative society, especially towards outsiders who might be seen as "corrupting" locals [sex for money/STDs etc.]

One or two tourists have talked about the delights of visiting Siwa's extensive gardens; by which they refer to the vast cultivated areas, mainly of date palms, which, though often fenced off with thickets of palms from the several zigzagging roads and pathways, are not difficult to enter. Here you will come across many Siwans at work. Bare-chested and casually dressed, most of them are forward and friendly.

Some of the garden areas, and it's vital to discover exactly where given the size of Siwa's cultivated area, are notorious for sexual activities at night. Tourists have even been warned by worried hotel receptionists not to visit any part of the gardens at night, which has not always had the desired effect of detering the adventurous. All I can recommend is that you rent a bicycle and explore.

Another often overlooked possibility is the Great Sand Sea just to the south of the oasis. Befriend an affable and handsome adult hantoor driver ( or if you can't find one then a taxi-driver ) and explain, if necessary with the help of a passer-by to overcome any language barrier, that you wish to use his services and his donkey to carry your food, water and firewood so that you can safely camp out under the stars. If you are thinking of taking beer, whisky or alcohol you will need to buy this in Alexandria or from a beach hotel at Mersa Matruh before departing for Siwa. In many cases alcohol will help greatly to break down any inhibitions.

But as always with such adventures do be careful. Let a friend know where you are going - preferably a tourist as you can't usually trust Egyptians not to interfere and cause unecessary problems both for you and your friend. Once ready head out to the dunes on the road which takes you past Siwa's only hospital.

Don't forget to take a compass, condoms and lubricant with you and if entering the dunes at night try not to loose sight of the red light on top of Siwa's radio mast. And never enter the dunes if a sandstorm is imminent.



A WORD OF CAUTION

If invited to dinner you should read Shane Money's useful advice in his book "Useless Sexual Trivia" in which he warns readers that traditional belief holds that if a Siwan man mixes semen in your food you will find him irresistible.

But is this true ? Has anyone had any experience like this in Siwa or anywhere ? Please e-mail us at info@gayegypt.com.



OTHER VIEW POINTS.

We recently received this e-mail (October 2000) suggesting the situation in Siwa may no longer be such an unqualified paradise as before.

"Hi, I just returned from Siwa where I spent three days. I have to tell you that the antigay sentiment is growing with the influx of more gay tourists. I have been going there many years. I am beginning to see a lot of gay European and American men there and this is making the situation more antigay. I spoke with a friend of mine who lives there and he said the gay scene there is changing for the worse. Please don't promote Siwa as a gay paradise so much because you will destroy the once simple and easy flow of the town and its nice people. Now locals are starting to demand money as guys are willing to pay where this was never the case before."



OUR VIEWPOINT

Unfortunately Siwa was never a utopia free from prostitution as Lloyd De Mause explained in The Journal of Psychohistory (Fall 1991)

"Pederastic marriages and pederastic prostitution have been so widespread in Siwa until just recently that everyone is accustomed to the proposition that men normally love boys more than they do women, saying: "They will kill each other for a boy. Never for a woman.""



FILM COVERS SIWAN GAY TRADITION

The 13th New York Lesbian and Gay Film Festival (2001) premiered a film "Siwa: An Egyptian Oasis" by Alain Burosse. The film is a 52 minute documentary in French with English subtitles. In the words of the promotion "Director Burosse investigates the customs of the Issiwanes, including the now-banned practice of men marrying each other."



SIWAN ANTHROPOLOGIST THREATENED FOR QUOTING "GAY" LYRICS OF LOVE SONG.

A book on Siwa Oasis, published in December 2001, made new revelations about some of Siwa's more secretive social traditions. The author, 27 year old Siwan anthropoligist Fathi Milan, made atleast one implicit reference to the Siwan tradition of homoerotic relationships, quoting a "love song" which contained the lyrics "The poet, my boyfriend."

Although Oasis Siwa: From the Inside is written in English, its' contents have quickly became known across the Oasis. Most of the passages were intriguing but entirely inocuous references to the city's traditions and customs, but there were the occasional references, implicit or otherwise, to adultery, poverty and homosexuality.

Siwa's Sheikhs decided they could not allow such truths to receive the embarrassing endorsement of a Siwan anthropologist.

They put pressure on Milan and on his extended family relatives. They warned him that if he didn't withdraw the offending pieces they would remove all "protection" from him. In Siwa, as in seventh century Arabia or twentieth century Naples, the protection of one's tribe or extended family counts for everything in the virtual absence of an effective police force. Milan knew that these threats effectively meant that his land could be seized at any moment and that he himself could face physical assault or even murder.

Reluctantly, the author agreed to censor the sections regarding some of Siwa's historical "secrets" from the book. To speed up the process, a whitening eraser similar to Tippex was used to erase passages from those books still unsold. However, the sheikhs may find, to their embarassment, that these books attract a premium and that readers will try hard to read the deleted passages by holding the pages up close to a light.

What an ugly and unforgiveable situation when mafia style threats are used to rewrite history. Unfortunately, at GayEgypt.com, we haven't been able to obtain a copy of Milan's orignal book.

But we have read a copy of the lyrics of this traditional homoerotic song as originally translated by Fathi Milan posted by a visitor at yahoo group SEWAM [ acronymn for Sexual Encounters With Arab Men ] on 23 February 2003. Now we've posted our version of just one small section here but we must stress that as we have no knowledge of Siwi it can in no sense be regarded as comparable with the original Siwan version but it may give the reader an idea -

Those who adore him
Suffer intense liverish pains
An internal inferno
No greater beloved than he
And now in old age
My passion grows yet wilder

Rid Bakrain from his magical powers
From his head to his toes
This delightful boy
We all worship him
Signing with all our fingers
Witnessing our love for him

GayEgypt.com is still searching for a copy of the original uncensored version of Milan's book. If you've got one please please email us at info@gayegypt.com and we'll get back to you immediately. We want to know exactly what caused such panic among Siwa's elders.

We understand that you can obtain copies of the book ( we assume the revised edition ) by emailing Fathi Milan on Fathi_Malim8@hotmail.com Dispatch can be arranged by airmail to any destination in the world at a cost of fifteen U.S. Dollars which will cover the cost of the book and registered airmail.



Further details can be found in a 31st October 2002 article on the author and the controversy in the Cairo Times available on the internet at www.cairotimes.com



TWO SIWAN GAY JOKES

First Joke: OK, so it's not so much a joke as an amusing saying. Let me explain. At the small town of Abu Shurouf, some 50 kilometres south west of Siwa, there is a salt lake where you can bathe. The town is also the location where all the female donkeys in the oasis are kept. So for one reason or another frustrated male Siwans, whenever time weighs heavy on their hands, are said to make for the town. Hence the saying "Have you been to Abu Shurouf" which in Siwi is a euphemism for "Have you had sex ?"

I'm afriad I can't comment on this as none of the editors here have had the opportunity to visit Abu Shurouf. If you know anything more please email info@GayEgypt.com

Second Joke

[ though to be fair to Siwans I should stress this one is actually an Egyptian gay joke about Siwa. ]

Stuck out at an army base 30 Kilometres west of Siwa Oasis and surrounded by the grim expanse of the desert, a newly arrived soldier, already feeling bored and frustrated, asked his sergeant - "Are there any sharameet ( prostitutes ) around ?"

"No," said the Sergeant, "You know it's impossible to find women in Siwa and if any soldier was caught having sex with one of the hantoor boys in the town it would create a scandal. We would both get thrown into a military prison. But 15 kilometres down the road back to Siwa there's a small shack where an old shepherd called Basim lives. If you've got a little money, he'll give you the hottest experience of your life."

The soldier was disgusted at the propspect. "Abadan (Never !) I wouldn't do that even if he paid me."

Six months later the soldier could no longer stand the boredom and frustration so he decided to ask his sergeant about Basim.

"So, this guy Basim, how much does he charge ?"

"Three hundred and twenty pounds," responded the Sergeant.

"I could never afford that. That's almost six month's pay and I've spent most of my money on cigarettes. Why does it cost so much ?"

"Well there's fifty pounds for the Shepherd, twenty pounds for the jeep driver to take you there and back, one hundred pounds is my commission and then there's fifty pounds for each of the soldiers who have to hold Basim down. You see he doesn't enjoy it that much either."

Now you've read this guide why not browse our new gay Siwa message board - click here !



HOTELS

For our comprehensive guide to hotels in Siwa click on

Siwa Oasis - Hotels

Skip to Alexandria, Aswan, Cairo, Dahab, Luxor or Sharm.

Warning: Gay sex or any homosexual activity puts you at risk of arrest, deportation or even imprisonment and all sexual encounters are undertaken at your own risk.

Photo: Copyright GayEgypt.com



Please also click on any of the following non-gay links about Siwa -



Siwaoasis-eg.com- nicely designed site but can take a while to download.

Touregypt's guide to Siwa- brief history and description with 2 photographs.

Photographs of Siwa- a beautiful selection of photographs.

More photographs of Siwa- over 30 photos of people and places in Siwa

A traveller's account- travel anecdotes and photographs.

Another traveller's account- factual description and photographs.

Desert Safaris- Desert safaris starting from Siwa

Siwa Adventure Package- 5 day trip by vikingegypt.

Today's weather in Siwa- in Arabic.

Siwa Safari Paradise Hotel- comfy but pricey or check others via hotels page.


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